Bulldog Amigurumi Pattern: Free Crochet Tutorial

There’s a particular kind of charm in a dog with too much face for its body — the underbite, the wrinkled brow, the stubby legs that somehow still manage to look proud. That’s exactly what this Bulldog amigurumi captures. With its oversized jowls, tiny tail nub, and a knitted bandana for extra personality, this little guy is built to sit on a shelf and look unreasonably pleased with himself.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Velour/chenille-style yarn (worsted weight, polyester or polyester-blend) in light gray (main color, approximately 121g), dark gray (contrast color, approximately 15g), and black (approximately 1g)
• Yarn: Fingering weight cotton-blend yarn in black and white, for facial details and eye shaping
• Hook: US D-3 (3.0 mm)
• Safety eyes: 18mm, 1 pair
• Safety nose: 18mm, 1 piece
• Joint set: 45mm, 1 pair (for head-to-body articulation)
• Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill
• Stitch markers
• Yarn needle / tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Sewing pins

Abbreviations Used

• BLO — Back Loop Only
• ch — Chain
• dec — Decrease (invisible decrease)
• FLO — Front Loop Only
• hdc — Half Double Crochet
• inc — Increase
• MR — Magic Ring
• sc — Single Crochet
• sl st — Slip Stitch
• st(s) — Stitch(es)

Pattern Notes

• This pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
• The body, legs, tail, and head are worked in continuous spiral rounds; the ears and bandana are worked in turned flat rows.
• Gauge is not critical for this project, but a tighter gauge than usual is recommended to keep stuffing from showing through, especially with velour-style yarn.
• Stitch count is given at the end of each round/row in parentheses: (##).
• The head is worked separately from the body and joined using a safety joint, allowing the finished head to move.
• The paw pads are worked in black yarn directly into the leg pieces using a color-change technique — read through this section before starting so the transitions feel familiar.
• Stuff firmly and evenly as you go; pieces left unstuffed (like the tail) are noted explicitly.

Pattern Instructions

Front Leg (make 2)

Worked in black yarn first; stuff firmly as you go.

• Rnd 1: 8 sc in MR. (8)
• Rnd 2: Switch to gray yarn; do not cut black. 8 inc. (16)
• Rnd 3: Work the paw pad here. (1 sc, inc) ×2, (1 hdc in black, inc using sc in gray) ×4, (1 sc, inc) ×2. (24)

Cut black yarn and weave in the end now.

• Rnd 4: 24 sc, worked through the indented/concave stitches to define the paw shape. (24)
• Rnd 5: 24 sc. (24)
• Rnd 6: 3 sc, (1 sc, dec) ×6, 3 sc. (18)
• Rnd 7: 18 sc. (18)
• Rnd 8: 3 sc, 6 dec, 3 sc. (12)
• Rnds 9–13: 12 sc around, no shaping (5 rounds). (12)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching to the body later. Repeat for the second front leg.

Back Leg (make 2)

Worked in black yarn first; stuff firmly as you go.

• Rnd 1: 8 sc in MR. (8)
• Rnd 2: Switch to gray yarn; do not cut black. 8 inc. (16)
• Rnd 3: Work the paw pad here. (1 sc, inc) ×2, (1 hdc in black, inc in gray) ×4, (1 sc, inc) ×2. (24)

Cut black yarn and weave in the end now.

• Rnd 4: 24 sc, worked through the indented/concave stitches to define the paw shape. Keep your stitch marker centered at the heel — shift it slightly if it drifts. (24)
• Rnd 5: 3 sc, (1 sc, dec) ×6, 3 sc. (18)
• Rnd 6: 2 inc, 14 sc, 2 inc. (22)
• Rnd 7: 5 sc, 6 dec, 5 sc. (16)
• Rnd 8: 3 dec, (1 sc, inc) ×2, 3 dec. (12)
• Rnd 9: 12 sc. (12)
• Rnd 10: 4 sc, (1 sc, inc) ×2, 4 sc. (14)
• Rnd 11: 5 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc. (16)
• Rnd 12: 1 sc, dec, 11 sc, 1 dec. (14)
• Rnd 13: 14 sc. (14)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching to the body later. Repeat for the second back leg.

Tail

Worked in light gray (main color). Do not stuff this piece.

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
• Rnd 2: 6 sc. (6)
• Rnd 3: (2 sc, inc) ×2. (8)
• Rnds 4–5: 8 sc around, no shaping (2 rounds). (8)

Fasten off, leaving a tail for attaching to the body.

Body

Worked in light gray (main color). Stuff firmly as you go.

• Row 1: Ch 11.
• Rnd 2: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook: inc, 8 sc, 4 sc in the last ch, then working back along the opposite side of the foundation chain: 8 sc, inc. (24)
• Rnd 3: 2 inc, 8 sc, 4 inc, 8 sc, 2 inc. (32)
• Rnd 4: (1 sc, inc) ×2, 8 sc, (1 sc, inc) ×4, 8 sc, (1 sc, inc) ×2. (40)
• Rnd 5: (2 sc, inc) ×2, 8 sc, (2 sc, inc) ×4, 8 sc, (2 sc, inc) ×2. (48)

Place a stitch marker at the exact back-center before continuing — the legs attach in the next round.

• Rnd 6: 4 sc, 4 sc joining a back leg, 8 sc, 4 sc joining a front leg, 8 sc, 4 sc joining a front leg, 8 sc, 4 sc joining a back leg, 4 sc. (48)
• Rnd 7: Across body: (1 sc, inc) ×2; across the back leg’s free loops: 6 sc, 4 inc; across body: (1 sc, inc) ×4; across the front leg’s free loops: (2 sc, inc) ×2, 2 sc; across body: (1 sc, inc) ×4; across the front leg’s free loops: (2 sc, inc) ×2, 2 sc; across body: (1 sc, inc) ×4; across the back leg’s free loops: 4 inc, 6 sc; across body: (1 sc, inc) ×2. (96)
• Rnd 8: 96 sc. (96)
• Rnd 9: 12 sc, 4 dec, 56 sc, 4 dec, 12 sc. (88)
• Rnds 10–14: 88 sc around, no shaping (5 rounds). (88)

Keep checking that your stitch marker sits at the back-center through this entire section — shift with offset stitches if it drifts.

• Rnd 15: (2 sc, dec) ×4, 15 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) ×6, 15 sc, (dec, 2 sc) ×4. (73)
• Rnd 16: 26 sc, 3 dec, 9 sc, 3 dec, 26 sc. (67)
• Rnd 17: (1 sc, dec) ×4, 42 sc, (1 sc, dec) ×4, 1 sc. (59)

The tail attaches over the next three rounds. Confirm your marker is still centered at the back before starting.

• Rnd 18: 57 sc, 2 sc joining the tail. (59)
• Rnd 19: 2 sc joining the tail, 3 sc, dec, (5 sc, dec) ×2, 17 sc, (dec, 5 sc) ×2, dec, 3 sc, 2 sc across the tail’s free loops. (53)

Move your start-of-round marker onto the tail itself.

• Rnd 20: 2 sc across the tail’s free loops, 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) ×2, 17 sc, (dec, 4 sc) ×3. (47)
• Rnd 21: (3 sc, dec) ×3, 17 sc, (dec, 3 sc) ×3. (41)
• Rnd 22: 13 sc, (1 sc, dec) ×5, 13 sc. (36)

Next, you’ll divide the upper body into the back panel and the neck opening.

• Rnd 23: (2 sc, dec) ×3, ch 6, skip 12 sc across the body, then starting at the 13th stitch work (dec, 2 sc) ×3. (24)
• Rnd 24: Across body: (1 sc, dec) ×3; across the chain stitches: (1 sc, dec) ×2; across body: (1 sc, dec) ×3. (16)

Stuff the entire rear section of the body firmly before closing.

• Rnd 25: 8 dec. (8)

Fasten off, cinch the opening closed, and weave in the end inside the toy.

Rejoin yarn at the neck opening, in the first stitch marked by your stitch marker.

• Rnd 1: 12 sc across the body, 6 sc across the chain stitches. (18)
• Rnd 2: 18 sc. (18)

Stuff the neck area well, then insert the safety joint here.

• Rnd 3: 9 dec. (9)

Fasten off, cinch the opening closed, and weave in the end inside the toy.

Ear (make 2)

Worked in turned flat rows using light gray (main color).

• Row 1: Ch 2.
• Row 2: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook: inc. (2)

From here, begin each row with ch 1 as your turning chain.

• Row 3: 2 inc. (4)
• Row 4: inc, 2 sc, inc. (6)
• Row 5: 6 sc. (6)
• Row 6: inc, 4 sc, inc. (8)
• Rows 7–9: 8 sc across, no shaping (3 rows). (8)

Work 1 ch as a turning chain, then work a round of sc evenly around both side edges of the ear, working 3 sc into the pointed tip.

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing the ear to the head. Repeat for the second ear.

Head (Muzzle, make 2 pieces, then joined)

Begin in dark gray (contrast color).

• Row 1: Ch 6.
• Rnd 2: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook: 4 sc, 3 sc in the last ch, then along the opposite side of the chain: 3 sc, inc. (12)
• Rnd 3: inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc. (18)
• Rnd 4: 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc) ×3, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc) ×2. (24)

Fasten off on the first muzzle piece. Work the second piece identically, but don’t fasten off this one — you’ll use it to join both pieces together.

Work 5 sc on the second piece to offset the seam, then hold both pieces together and work 5 sc through both layers at once to join them.

Mark the next stitch on the first piece as your new start of round.

• Rnd 5: 19 sc across the first piece, 19 sc across the second piece. (38)
• Rnd 6: 38 sc. (38)

Work 9 sc to offset the seam again, and mark a new start of round.

• Rnd 7: 20 sc, 18 sc worked through the front loops only (FLO). (38)
• Rnd 8: 8 sc, 4 inc, 26 sc. (42)
• Rnd 9: 24 sc, 18 sc joined through the back loops only (BLO) of Rnd 6. (42)
• Rnd 10: (2 sc, dec) ×6, 18 sc. (36)
• Rnd 11: (1 sc, dec) ×6, 18 sl st. (30)

Switch to light gray (main color) here.

• Rnd 12: (1 sc, inc) ×6, 18 inc worked in hdc. Place the safety eyes in this round: the first eye into the 7th hdc increase, the second eye into the 13th hdc increase, leaving 12 sc between the eye posts. (54)
• Rnd 13: (5 sc, inc) ×9. (63)
• Rnds 14–19: 63 sc around, no shaping (6 rounds). (63)
• Rnd 20: (7 sc, dec) ×7. (56)
• Rnd 21: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) ×6, 3 sc. (49)
• Rnd 22: (5 sc, dec) ×7. (41)

Place the safety nose centered on the muzzle, snug against the seam. Stuff the muzzle firmly now. Find the center point between Rounds 16 and 17 — this is where the neck joint goes. Attach the head to the safety joint here, then continue stuffing the head evenly as you work the remaining rounds.

• Rnd 23: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) ×6, 2 sc. (35)
• Rnd 24: (3 sc, dec) ×7. (28)
• Rnd 25: (2 sc, dec) ×7. (21)
• Rnd 26: (1 sc, dec) ×7. (14)
• Rnd 27: 7 dec. (7)

Fasten off, cinch the opening closed, and weave the end inside the toy.

Neck Bandana

Worked in turned flat rows using light gray (main color).

• Row 1: Ch 2.
• Row 2: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook: inc. (2)

Begin each following row with ch 1 as your turning chain.

• Row 3: 2 inc. (4)
• Row 4: inc, 2 sc, inc. (6)
• Row 5: inc, 4 sc, inc. (8)
• Row 6: 8 sc. (8)
• Row 7: inc, 6 sc, inc. (10)
• Row 8: 10 sc. (10)
• Row 9: inc, 8 sc, inc. (12)
• Row 10: 12 sc. (12)

Chain 31. Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, work 30 sc. Continue working hdc evenly along one side edge of the bandana, working 3 hdc into the corner point, then continue hdc evenly along the second side edge.

Chain 31 again. Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, work 30 sc. Work hdc evenly along the top edge of the bandana. Fasten off and weave the end in on the wrong side.

Assembly

1. Using black yarn and a long yarn needle, shape the eyes by tucking a stitch beneath each eye to create the deep-set bulldog expression. Secure the yarn ends with a few firm knots and bury them inside the head.
2. Add the facial details to the muzzle using the safety nose placement and eye-tuck shaping from the previous step as your guide.
3. Position both ears at the level of Rounds 17–18 on the head, leaving 12 sc of space between their inner edges. Fold the inner edge of each ear slightly inward before sewing for a more natural, floppy look.
4. Sew each ear in place using the yarn tail left from that ear’s last round, securing firmly and weaving the end inside the head.
5. Using dark gray yarn, embroider the eyebrows above the eyes for the classic furrowed bulldog brow.
6. Using black yarn, embroider small claws onto each paw for a finished, detailed look.
7. Tie the finished bandana around the dog’s neck and tack it lightly in place with a few stitches if you’d like it to stay put.
8. Weave in any remaining yarn ends throughout the body, legs, and head until none are visible.

Tips & Tricks

Keep your tension tighter than you might for a flat project — amigurumi worked in spiral rounds needs a snug fabric so stuffing doesn’t peek through between stitches, especially with a fuzzy velour-style yarn that can hide gaps until it’s too late. If your stitches feel loose, drop down half a hook size rather than fighting your own grip.

The paw pad sections in the legs are the trickiest part of this whole pattern, simply because you’re managing two yarn colors and counting stitches at the same time. Read through Round 3 of each leg twice before you start, and don’t cut your black yarn until the instructions explicitly say to — carrying it gives you the flexibility to adjust if your count is off by a stitch.

For the invisible decrease throughout the body and head, insert your hook into the front loop of the next stitch and the front loop of the stitch after it, then complete a single crochet through both. This keeps the bulldog’s curves smooth instead of leaving little bumps where the shaping happens.

Don’t overstuff the muzzle — it should feel firm but still have a little give, especially around the safety nose placement. Overstuffing here can distort the wrinkled jowl shape that makes this pattern so charming in the first place.

When sewing the ears on, pin them in place first and step back to look at the head from multiple angles before you commit to stitching. Bulldog ears carry a lot of the toy’s personality, and even a half-stitch shift in placement can change the whole expression.