Amigurumi Bear with a Daisy: Free Crochet Pattern

A small bear holding a single daisy out toward you is the kind of gift that doesn’t need an occasion — it just needs someone you love. This amigurumi bear pattern captures that quiet, sweet gesture in yarn, with a fully poseable head, jointed-look limbs, and a hand-crocheted daisy with a wire stem so it really stands upright in his paw.

It’s an intermediate-friendly project, perfect for makers who’ve crocheted a few amigurumi basics and are ready to build a more detailed character piece.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Worsted weight (size 4) plush/chenille-style yarn, approximately 100g (about 120m) in brown for the bear; small amounts of yellow, white, and green for the daisy
• Hook: US size G-6 (4 mm)
• Safety eyes: 16mm, 1 pair
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Floral wire: 35cm, copper, 1.5mm gauge (for the daisy stem)
• Stitch marker
• Yarn needle (large eye, for sewing and embroidery)
• Scissors
• Strong fabric/craft glue (for securing eyes or wire ends, optional but recommended)

Abbreviations Used

• ch — Chain
• dec — Decrease (invisible decrease recommended)
• inc — Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
• MR — Magic Ring
• sc — Single Crochet
• sl st — Slip Stitch
• st(s) — Stitch(es)

Pattern Notes

• This pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
• The body, head, limbs, and tail are worked in continuous spirals — do not join or chain between rounds unless instructed.
• The legs begin with a flat foundation row before joining into rounds.
• Gauge is not critical for this project; just be sure your tension is tight enough that stuffing doesn’t peek through the stitches.
• Stitch count is given at the end of each round in parentheses, like this: (12).
• Stuff firmly but evenly — you’ll be shaping specific areas (the belly, bottom, muzzle, and cheeks) as you go, so add stuffing gradually rather than all at once.
• The arms and legs are worked unstuffed or lightly stuffed and joined directly into the body as you crochet, rather than sewn on afterward.

Pattern Instructions

Arms (Make 2)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
• Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
• Rnd 3: sc in each st around. (12)
• Rnd 4: dec in each st around. (6)
• Rnds 5–10: sc in each st around. (6) Do not stuff.

Tail

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
• Rnd 2: sc in each st around. (6)
• Rnd 3: dec around. Fasten off. (3)

Ears (Make 2)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
• Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
• Rnd 3: sc in each st around. (12) Set aside — sew on after the head is complete, referencing the photo for placement.

Nose

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
• Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12) Set aside — sew on after the muzzle is shaped.

Legs / Feet (Make 2)

• Row 1: Ch 4. Working around the foundation chain (do not join into a round yet): inc, 1 sc, 4 sc into the same st, then along the other side of the chain: 1 sc, inc. (10)
• Rnd 2: (inc) twice, 1 sc, (inc) 4 times, 1 sc, (inc) twice. (18)
• Rnds 3–4: sc in each st around. (18)
• Rnd 5: 4 sc, (dec) 5 times, 4 sc. (13)
• Rnd 6: 4 sc, (dec) 3 times, 3 sc. (10)
• Rnds 7–9: sc in each st around. (10) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for joining to the body.

Body

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
• Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
• Rnd 3: 2 sc, hold first leg against the body and work through both layers at once: 2 sc, sc 4 across the body, hold second leg against the body and join through both layers: 2 sc, sc 2 across the body. (12) Place a stitch marker here to mark the start of the round — keep it running straight up the back as you work; nudge stitches if it drifts.
• Rnd 4: 1 sc, inc, sc 8 across the remaining leg sts, inc on the belly, 2 sc, inc, sc 8 across the second leg, inc on the body, 1 sc. (28)
• Rnd 5: 1 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 1 sc. (32)
• Rnds 6–10: sc in each st around. (32)
• Rnd 11: 1 sc, (dec) 3 times, 18 sc, (dec) 3 times, 1 sc. (26)
• Rnd 12: 2 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 2 sc. (22)
• Rnd 13: 8 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 8 sc. (20) Begin stuffing the body now, shaping a defined belly and bottom as you fill it.
• Rnds 14–15: sc in each st around. (20)
• Rnd 16: 3 sc, hold one arm against the body and work through both layers: 3 sc, sc 8 across the body, work through body and arm together: 3 sc, 3 sc. (20)
• Rnd 17: 3 sc, sc 3 across the arm, sc 8 across the body, sc 3 across the second arm, sc 3 across the body. (20)
• Rnd 18: 7 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 7 sc. (18)
• Rnd 19: (1 sc, dec) 6 times. (12)
• Rnds 20–21: sc in each st around. (12) Optional: thread a single length of wire through both arms, palm to palm across the body, for poseable arms.

Head

• Rnd 22: inc in each st around. (24)
• Rnd 23: (3 sc, inc) 6 times. (30)
• Rnd 24: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) 5 times, 2 sc. (36)
• Rnd 25: 14 sc, (inc, 1 sc) 4 times, 14 sc. (40)
• Rnd 26: 11 sc, inc, 16 sc, inc, 11 sc. (42)
• Rnds 27–30: sc in each st around. (42)
• Rnd 31: 12 sc, (dec, 1 sc) 6 times, 12 sc. (36)
• Rnd 32: 2 sc, dec, 28 sc, dec, 2 sc. (34) Attach the safety eyes between Rounds 32 and 33, spacing them 3–4 sc apart.
• Rnds 33–34: sc in each st around. (34)
• Rnd 35: 16 sc, inc, 17 sc. (35)
• Rnd 36: sc in each st around. (35)
• Rnd 37: (1 sc, dec) twice, 10 sc, dec, 11 sc, (dec, 1 sc) twice. (30)
• Rnd 38: (3 sc, dec) 6 times. (24) Stuff the head firmly now, shaping a rounded muzzle and full cheeks.
• Rnd 39: (2 sc, dec) 6 times. (18)
• Rnd 40: dec around. (9)
• Rnd 41: dec around 4 times, then cinch the remaining sts closed and fasten off.

Daisy Center (Make 2)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR — work this magic ring loosely so the stem wire can be threaded through it later. (6)
• Rnd 2: Thread the stem wire through this piece, place the second matching piece on top so the wire sits between them, then single crochet through both layers at once into each stitch, increasing throughout: inc in each st around. (12)

Assembly

1. Wrap the daisy stem wire with green yarn, working from the base up. Curl the top of the wire into a small loop no more than 1cm across — this loop anchors the flower center in place.
2. Layer the two daisy center pieces with the curled wire loop sandwiched between them, then crochet around the edge to join both pieces and the wire together, as described in Round 2 of the Daisy Center.
3. For the petals: chain 10, then slip stitch into the next stitch around the edge of the joined daisy center. Chain 10 again, slip stitch into the following stitch. Repeat all the way around until the center is fully ringed with petals.
4. Once the head is stuffed and closed, perform the eye gather: insert your needle under the chin and bring it out beneath one eye at the outer corner, carry the yarn under the eye to the inner corner, then back under the chin. Pull snug to set the eye socket. Repeat for the second eye, then repeat the same gathering technique from the back of the head so the back skull rounds out neatly.
5. Shape the mouth: insert your needle through the bridge of the nose, bring it out two rounds below the nose at the mouth position, catch a single stitch, and bring the needle back through the bridge of the nose. Pull gently to set a soft, indented smile.
6. Sew the ears onto the head using a whipstitch, referencing the photos for placement, then embroider the eyebrows in a contrasting color and add light blush or shading to the cheeks and muzzle.
7. Sew the nose onto the gathered muzzle area, securing firmly with your yarn tail.
8. Insert the daisy stem into one paw, securing with a touch of craft glue if you’d like extra hold, and weave in all remaining yarn ends.

Tips & Tricks

Keep your tension snug and even throughout — amigurumi worked too loosely will let stuffing show through the stitches and lose its crisp shape, especially on a plush-textured yarn that already has a bit of halo to it. If your stitches feel airy, try dropping to a hook a half-size smaller.

For the cleanest decreases, use the invisible decrease technique (inserting your hook into the front loops of two stitches before pulling through) rather than a standard sc2tog. It sits flatter and nearly disappears into the round, which matters a lot on a visible spot like the head shaping rounds.

Stuff in small pinches rather than large clumps, and check the shape from multiple angles as you go — this is especially important on the body, where you’re intentionally building out a rounded belly and bottom rather than a uniform sphere.

If you swap in a different yarn, stick close to worsted weight for proportions to match the photos; a fuzzier or chenille-style yarn will give you that classic soft amigurumi look, while a smooth cotton will show stitch definition more and produce a slightly different finished texture.

The leg attachment in Round 3 of the Body is the trickiest part of this pattern — you’re crocheting through both the body stitch and the leg stitch simultaneously. Go slowly, keep the foot facing the direction noted in the round, and don’t worry if it feels fiddly the first time; it gets easier by the second leg.