Sitting Minion Amigurumi PDF Free Crochet Pattern
Sitting Minion Amigurumi PDF Free Crochet Pattern
Hello to everyone,
I shared the popular movie character Minion Rush amigurumi toy for you. You will be able to make the amigurumi pattern step by step easily and without difficulty. Kids will love this free amigurumi pattern. You can also prepare holiday gifts for them.
The Sitting Minion amigurumi pattern consists of a large body part, arms, and legs. We start with the body part first. After the body is completed, we crochet the arms and legs.
While making the arms, we also make the black gloves of the Minion amigurumi pattern. After completing all the parts, we attach them to the body. The eye part of the amigurumi pattern is crocheted separately.
Don’t forget to add this superhero amigurumi pattern to your favorites.
PDF Sitting Minion Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern
Designer
- Instagram: chibiscraft
- Ravelry: chibiscraft
Tips
- Crochet the doll with tight stitches. Use a smaller crochet hook for a better result.
- Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end of each round.
- It is highly recommended that you read through the pattern completely before beginning to crochet.
Materials
- 2.0 mm crochet hook or a size suitable for the yarn used
- Tapestry needle
- Sewing needle to attach buttons
- 2 small black buttons, 5 mm
- Fiberfill for stuffing
- Scissors
- Yarn in the same size. The original pattern uses 4-ply cotton blend yarn suitable for a 2.5 mm hook.
Yarn colors:
- Yellow
- Blue
- Black
- White
- Grey
- Dark brown
Abbreviations
This pattern is written in US Standard Crochet Terms and assumes knowledge of basic crochet stitches.
- R = Row / Round
- MR = Magic ring
- st = stitch / stitches
- sc = single crochet
- inc = single crochet increase
- dec = single crochet decrease. Use invisible decrease for a better finish.
- sc4tog = single crochet 4 together
- hdc inc = half double crochet increase
- hdc = half double crochet
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- BLO = back loop only
- FLO = front loop only
- FL = front loop / loops
- FO = fasten off
- (__) = stitch count at the end of the row / round
Dimension
The size of the doll will vary depending on the yarn used. If you use the same materials as the original pattern, the finished doll will be approximately 10.5 cm (4.15 inches) tall.
Let’s start making the amigurumi Minion toy 🙂
Special Stitches & Techniques
Crochet Surface Slip Stitches
Insert the hook into the crocheted fabric from front to back and place the slip knot on the hook.
Keeping the yarn at the back, pull up the loop of the slip knot through the fabric to the front, keeping the knot at the back.
Insert the hook into the next specified spot from front to back. Pull up a loop through the fabric and through the loop already on the hook.
Repeat as instructed to make the surface chain.
Standing Single Crochet
First, start with a slip knot on your hook. Insert your hook into the first stitch you want to work into.
Yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over again and pull through both loops on your hook.
Standing Half Double Crochet
First, wrap the yarn around the hook 3 times. Then insert the hook into the first stitch you want to work into.
Pull the working end behind the piece you are working into. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You should now have 4 loops on the hook.
Yarn over again and pull through the first 3 loops on the hook. You may need to pull over the end of the hook with your other hand.
Make your next couple of regular hdc stitches according to the pattern. Then you can let go of the tail. At the end of this step, you will already have 2 hdc.
Head and Body
Start with yellow yarn.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: 6 inc (12)
R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
R4: sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x5, sc (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
R6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x5, 2 sc (36)
R7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42)
R8: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x5, 3 sc (48)
R9: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54)
R10–31: 54 sc (54)
Note: After this round, continue with blue yarn. Before doing so, prepare approximately 1 meter of blue yarn to make the crochet surface slip stitch around the color-changing round.
You can prepare more or less yarn depending on your yarn weight. If you can access both ends of the yarn and use the opposite end for the surface slip stitch, you can skip this preparation step.
Change to blue yarn.
R32: 54 sc (54)
R33: (BLO 15 sc, normal 12 sc) x2 (54)
R34: 54 sc (54)
Stop and work a row of blue surface slip stitches between R31 and R32, on top of the color change. End with an invisible join.
R35: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x8, 2 sc (45)
R36: (3 sc, dec) x9 (36)
R37: 1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x8, sc (27)
R38: (sc, dec) x9 (18)
Stuff with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you work the next rounds.
R39: (sc, dec) x6 (12)
R40: 6 dec (6)
FO and leave a long tail to complete.
Using a tapestry needle, pass the tail through all FLs of the last round and pull tight. Make a knot and hide the yarn inside the doll’s body.
Overall’s Bib
The bibs are worked into the FLs left from R32 of the body, where R33 was worked in BLO.
You need to make 2 bibs. The back bib is located near the color-changing stitch.
The bibs are crocheted in rows. When starting the bibs, hold the doll body with the blue part facing you and work from right to left.
Note: Work the bibs as straight as possible on the body.
Front Part
Start with blue yarn. Attach the yarn to the FLs of R32 and make a loop.
R1: standing hdc, 12 hdc (14), 2 turning ch
R2–R4: turn, 14 hdc (14), 2 turning ch
R5: turn, 14 hdc (14)
FO and leave a long tail for sewing.
Back Part
Work the same as the front part through the end of R5.
Then continue to make the straps:
Make 25 ch. Work 1 sc into the second loop from the hook, then 23 sc.
At this point, check the length of the strap. It should be long enough to reach the front bib correctly. If necessary, adjust the number of chains.
Continue by working 14 sl sts along the bib line.
Make another 25 ch. Work 1 sc into the second loop from the hook, then 23 sc.
Make a sl st into the last hdc of R5.
FO. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.
Start with blue yarn and work in rows.
R1: 6 hdc in MR (6), 2 turning ch
R2: 6 hdc inc (12)
Then make several sl sts along the upper part of the pocket.
FO and leave a long tail for sewing.
Arms and Gloves – Make 2
Start with black yarn.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: 6 inc (12)
R3: 12 sc (12)
R4: (sc, dec) x4 (8)
Stuff with fiberfill.
R5: (2 sc, dec) x2 (6)
Change to yellow yarn. Do not cut the black yarn.
The remaining black tail should stay outside.
R6: BLO 6 sc (6)
R7–13: 6 sc (6)
Stop and work a row of black sc. Using the black tail, work into the FLs left from R5 where R6 was worked in BLO.
Make a loop, then make 6 sc around.
Sl st, FO, and hide the tail inside the arm.
Last round: Flatten and work through both thicknesses with 3 sc (3).
FO and leave a long tail for sewing.
Eye and Goggle
White Part of the Eye and Goggle
Start with white yarn.
R1: 7 sc in MR (7)
R2: 7 inc (14)
R3: (sc, inc) x7 (21)
R4: sc, inc, [2 sc, inc] x6, sc (28)
Change to black yarn.
R5a: BLO (3 sc, inc) x7 (35)
Continue to work the goggle strap.
Work 49 ch, then 1 hdc into the third loop from the hook. Work 46 hdc.
Check the length of the strap. It should be long enough to fit around the doll’s head. If necessary, adjust the number of chains.
Sl st, FO, and leave a long tail for sewing.
Continue with grey yarn into the FLs left from R4, where R5a was worked in BLO.
R5b: FLO standing sc, 2 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) x6 (35). End with a sl st.
R6: 35 sl sts connecting the black FLs of R5a and the grey BLs of R5b (35)
FO and leave a short tail. Weave in the ends.
Eyeball
Start with black yarn.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Change to dark brown yarn.
R2: 6 inc (12)
FO and leave a long tail for sewing.
Sew the eyeball to the center of the white eye section.
Legs – Make 2
First, make an oval by crocheting around the foundation chain.
Start with black yarn.
R1: Make a foundation chain of 6 ch. Work 1 sc into the second loop from the hook, 3 sc, 3 sc into the last st. Turn and continue on the other side of the foundation chain: 3 sc, inc (12)
Continue crocheting in a spiral.
R2: inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18)
R3: BLO 2 sc, 2 dec, sc4tog, 2 dec, 2 sc, dec (10)
Note: Every time you work a decrease in BLO, use a normal decrease rather than an invisible decrease.
R4: 2 sc, dec, sc, dec, 3 sc (8)
Change to blue yarn.
R5: FLO sc, 6 inc, sc (14)
Stuff the shoe with fiberfill. Continue stuffing as you work the next rounds.
R6: BLO 3 sc, 4 dec, 3 sc (10)
R7: sc, inc, 7 sc, inc (12)
R8: 12 sc (12)
R9: 2 dec, 2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec (8)
R10: 8 sc (8)
Note: Do not overstuff near the last round or flattened section. This helps maintain the correct shape of the legs so the doll can sit properly.
Last round: Flatten and work through both thicknesses with 4 sc (4).
FO and leave a long tail for sewing.
Assembly
- Sew the arms to the sides of the body between R23 and R24.
- Sew the pocket to the middle of the front bib.
- Sew the straps from the back bib to the front bib.
- Sew the tail of the goggle strap to the opposite side of the goggle.
- Sew the eye to the body between R9 and R19.
- Sew the legs to the bottom of the body between R36 and R37.
- You may also need to sew the other side of the legs to secure their position so the Minion can sit properly.
Additional Details
- Embroider a smile onto the head around R20–23.
- Embroider hair onto the head.
- Sew the small black buttons onto the straps of the bib.
Congratulations! Your Minion is ready. I hope you enjoyed crocheting him. 🙂
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